Summer Swimming Pool Care

Summer swimming is a part of vacation, warm weather, heavy swimming pool use and pride of life. Unfortunately, many people look to their pool and say, "Hey, water looks great!" Then they wonder why they only deal with cloudy water, algae and other pools in just a few days.

The pool resident or commercial, water supply must be consistent. If the supply is not consistent, the pool can quickly pass from shining blue to cloudy and cloudy or sometimes even worse within a few hours. What are the factors that cause these changes? There are many. Here are the most common ones.

Due to serious pregnancies, the disinfectant of the pool is exhausted more quickly. If the pool owner counts for a party or a large number of swimmers it would be a good idea to shake or superclimate the pool 6 hours before the party. The slightly higher cleaning agent (in this case chlorine) will be exposed during the party. After the party, consider repetitive removal of floating waste (sweat, urine, lotion, etc.) left by the protester. The maintenance dose of algaecide also helps.

Lack of swimmers. Yes, no floaters. If you do not use the swimming pool, you can eliminate the "natural" brushing and erasing of the pool surface and the better circulation that floaters bring to the pool. The "dead patches" of bad water circulation are brought to life. Even a floater can splash the sparkling water and cloudy water every 30 minutes a day

Summer temperatures mean a much higher water temperature. Keep in mind that every 10-degree rise in the pool water temperature will result in doubling the use of chlorine. In other words, if the 15,000 gallon basin typically uses approximately 1 pound of dissolving tri-chlorine rods or ears at 75 ° F / week, when the temperature of the water rises to a very comfortable 85 degrees, then 2 kg of chlorine to maintain the same disinfection level.

The lack of a good, consistent pool water program. The best way to maintain a sparkling blue pool is to add shock and algae a week. Customers who are facing the most common problems with our algae or cloudy water in our business are people who only open the pool or if they get into trouble they only add shock and algae. At this point, you can simply doubled or doubled the amount of money that a normal program would cost. Not to mention the stoppage and the question: "Dad, when we can use the pool again." A typical maintenance program for a 10,000 gallon pool is a pound of particulate calcium hypochlorite shock per week, followed by a maintenance dose of good quality algae the next morning. When you get stuck in the pool do not jump. It's always better to add a bit more (ie a 14,000 gallon pool needs a full 2 ​​pound shock, not £ 1.4). If you expect a party, follow the tips above. It's also a good idea to have something "party shock", just in case the unexpected company falls. Party punches are great because you can add them to the pool and then get caught. You can continue swimming within 15 minutes. Your pool gets extra disinfection efficiency to handle larger float loads and the odds are that the pool really looks really good if everyone leaves it!

I can not tell how many people just do not test their pool water. Regretfully, the balance of water can not be seen. You have to try. If the water is in balance, the disinfectant works more efficiently and efficiently, swims the eyes and the skin is not irritated, and the pool equipment filter, pump, heating, etc. – damage to corrosion or scaling. It takes only a few minutes to complete the test at home. But be accurate. Do not settle near the province! Better yet, find a good qualified local pool shop with a computer analytics center and someone who knows the pool water chemistry and asks the right questions. The water balance is simple, pH 7.4 to 7.6, total alkalinity is 100-140 ppm, calcium hardness is about 200-250 ppm. All factors are interconnected. If the pH changes constantly, you can be sure that the total alkalinity is low, causing a pH rebound. If you notice that water is getting cooler when the temperature rises and usually uses calcium hypochlorite, you can be sure that the hardness of the calcium is high and that the pH and total alkalinity are high. If the water is "crystal clear", but blonde-haired children come out with the latest green hair, the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness have died.

Solar cells are a source of constant bacteria and algae. Solar cells should be carefully and thoroughly subjected to chemical purification at least twice during swimming. The water quality problem of many pools is the result of the "biofilms" of algae and bacteria that grow on the surface of the solar cell blanket. You do not even know they're there until you feel that little bitch. All you have to do is start a pool problem, which can be a mess and cleans. Instead, consider one of the many "chemical" solar cells such as Ecosavr or Tropical Fish solar cells. Up to 75% are as efficient as conventional solar panels and do not have to worry about cleaning, removing, and storing them. Finally, a dirty filter can help gather the problems. Whether equipped with a sand, cartridge or diatomaceous earth (DE) filter, provide adequate chemical cleaning. Do not just wash or drain the grilles. A good filter cleaner removes accumulated fats, oils and detergents and helps to restore efficiency to the filter. Look at this. Would it clean the dirt or clean it with the proper detergent? The same applies to the filter. Chemical purification of DE and cartridge filters also extends the life of the filter media.

If this pool is in trouble this summer, it is worthwhile talking to a specialist. Otherwise, there is a risk that you will spend a lot of money on the problems, not the water problem.

Source by Ronald Parrs

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